Paddling on Maligne Lake
After my previous experiences paddling in paradise, I was determined
to enjoy this experience, no matter how miserable it might be. Rain,
clouds, even snow and ice wouldn't keep me from enjoying this
experience.
We arrived at the boat house around 9:00AM. There was a young couple
standing at the counter renting a double. The man asked, "How far is
it to Spirit Island." The guy behind the counter replied, "About
three hours. But that's paddling the entire time with no stops. If
you want to go all the way there, don't worry about getting back by
closing time. There's a night drop box outside. Just put your gear
in there and tie up the kayak on the dock." The couple got in their
boat and then started towards Spirit Island.
We knew that 3 hours wasn't unrealistic, but it's around 8 miles to
Spirit Island from the boat house. It's doable in 3 hours
for someone with experience, even in these bathtub boats, but that's
quite a workout. We agreed that we'd try for Spirit Island, but we'd
turn around before we got there if we needed to.
I grabbed a PFD and the lightest paddle I they had. Heath informed
the owner she wanted a 230cm paddle. He just looked at her and then
pointed to the clump of identical, heavy, rental paddles of unknown
length, leaning in the corner. He helped Jean and I adjust the
footrests of her double and my single. Mine was perfect, but Jean
didn't notice till she was in the water that when she centered the
pedals, the rudder was well over to the left. When Jean asked what
the paddle float was for, the owner showed her how to slip it onto the
end of the paddle and then said "then you just use this to climb back
into the boat. It's easy." Right. Just like that. Easy.
The only other advice the owner gave was, "When the tour boats pass
you, turn into the wake." I wasn't worried by this as I
was certain that we could handle whatever the lake threw at us, but
the couple that left right before us followed this advice every time a
boat went by.
The weather started out great. High clouds, little wind and calm
water. We took a break at Four Mile Point and then stopped for lunch
about 2 miles short of Samson Narrows. The wind had picked up,
blowing the clouds out of our photos, but also creating a nice little
chop on the lake. As we rounded the point, we got slammed with strong
winds and whitecaps. Jean expressed her interest in turning around,
but Heath pointed out that we were almost to Spirit Island and I
suggested waiting a few minutes to see if the wind died down. It did.
As we went past Charlton Creek and into Fisherman's Bay, whatever wind
remained was at our backs. Jean asked a couple heading back to the
boathouse in a canoe how much further it was to Spirit Island. Their
response of "just around that point, about 10 minutes" was enough to
keep her going.
As we rounded the point, we saw that the inexperienced couple that left
just before us had made it to Spirit Island. We went around the
peninsula, and landed near the boat pier. Just after we landed, a
boat full of camera toting tourists invaded. I grabbed by camera and
went over to help Heath and Jean with their boat. I had managed to
find a small break in the rocks and landed on the pebble beach, but
they had landed in the mud.
We hung out for a while, ate and waited for the boat to leave. When
it did, we took all the required photos and stretched our legs.
Another boat of camera toting tourists came, climbed the steps to the
spot and took the picture, then got back on the boat and left. (Of
course I went to the spot and took the picture, but I paddled there,
so I'm better than those lazy wimps.)
I considered finding the couple we had followed all day to make sure
they were okay, but decided against it. They had seen us come in and
knew we were there and there were boats coming and going every few
minutes. They left a little before we did.
As we were getting ready to leave, one of the camera toting tourists
asked Heath, "Did you paddle all the way here in those?" Heath replied that we
had and he replied, "That's great. When did you leave?" She told him
that we'd been on the water a little over 4 hours, but we'd stopped a
couple of times. He replied, "That's amazing. Good luck!"
As we headed back, the weather started got worse. The temperature
fell and the wind picked up. As we hugged the right shoreline back
through Samson Narrows, I saw the inexperienced couple up ahead and
decided to shadow them for a while on the left side of the lake. They
looked a lot better than when they first started. Their seemingly
random strokes were now relativly in sync.
I decided to pass them and catch up with Heath and Jean. As I went by
them, I heard them arguing with each other, but didn't think anything
of it. I reminded me of Heath and I's first time in a double.
A short time later, the wind really kicked up. It was at least 30
knots. It was coming from the right and I had waves breaking over the
boat. I had a spray skirt, but neither Heath nor Jean did. I decided
to cross back over to them so I'd be close in case something happened,
even though I'd be paddling directly into the wind.
As I started across the lake, the wind got worse. At one point it
blew so hard that a sudden gust nearly blew the paddle out of my
hands. (Note to self: always bring your own paddle leash.) It felt
like I was going nowhere. Looking at the shoreline as I struggled
forward confirmed it. After about 20 minutes, I finally made it
across to Heath and Jean. The closer I got to the shoreline, the more
the wind died down.
We were all worn out by that point, but we were also still about 6
miles from the boathouse, so we just kept paddling. As we got to Four
Mile Point, we decided to stop and rest. My back was exhausted and my
face quite sun burned. We stretched our legs and then I helped Heath
and Jean off the beach. While they went ahead, I stayed behind to try
to adjust the rudder pedals. The straps were slipping and I could
barely turn the rudder anymore.
As I pulled away from the beach, I saw the other couple not too far
back. I hadn't thought about them for a while, but then I wondered
how they had done in the wind. I should have stopped and made sure
they were okay, but I didn't.
As we rounded Four Mile Point, the wind shifted. It was now at our
backs and the chop was almost surfable. Every once and a while, I
caught a wave and rode it for a few seconds. I caught up to Heath and Jean
fairly quickly. As we got close to the boathouse, I pulled ahead so I
could help them out of the boat.
As I got there, the guy was just leaving. He drug my boat up on the
dock and took my gear. He reminded me about the drop box, locked up
the boathouse and then left. Heath and Jean arrived and I put away
their boat and gear. I saw the other couple round the point and by
then, we were all ready to go, so we got in the car and left.
As we were driving back to Jasper, we passed an ambulance heading
towards the lake. I have nothing to base this on, but I can't stop
wondering if something happened to the other couple. I also wondered
how many other people were still out on the lake.
Overall, we all got some great photos and had a great time. It wasn't
easy. It was the most any of us had ever paddled in a day. We all
agreed that we'd do it again, just not any time soon.